Hello Chevron Ensis!

Did I tell you that I am in Love with Papercut Patterns - okay so moving right along then, let's talk about my Ensis Tee which I've made up in this fabulous cream and black chevron.

The top black pieces are NZ merino, a remnant piece from my stash and the bottom is a polyester knit, recently found on Trade Me (the NZ equivalent to EBay).  Yes, I did say polyester!  I've been looking for chevron knit fabric but NZ seem to be behind the rest of the world in realising that this is popular right now.  There are plenty of overseas online stores with great cotton knits but the shipping makes it really, really expensive for a knit fabric - so I've settled for a poly!

In saying that, the polyester hangs really nicely and just needed hemming with a double needle, which looks awesome btw!

I made a size xtra small and added 1" to the sleeve length, well actually to the cuff length.  I'm a bit of a fan of the deeper cuff :-)  Note to self for next time, add about 1/2" to the width of the cuff, which will still be a snug fit, but will be a little easier to attach to those pesky sleeve ends.

I like how the upper body and arms have a snug fit but through the body it's a little more free flowing.  I like how this pattern could also be sewn up in a double knit, perhaps a size bigger and be a great stylie sweater - version 1 with the bands lends itself that way, or you could add a bit of length and get a lovely tunic top.

My Papercut love includes:
Peter and the Wolf Pants
Circle Top 2 - Black
Circle Top 1 - Red

As always more photos on my Flickr -->

Hi Low Raglan

This was love at first sight!

This is the Hi Lo Raglan pattern from Jamie Christina.  The best part is that there was no waiting around to get this one made up:  download, tape together, fabric from stash and wolla a new top all in a day :-)

Two months, 38 hours and counting

Back in October I embarked on construction of My Little French Jacket and it has been a bit of a journey.  I started with a hiss and a roar and was ahead of the game, each week waiting anxiously for the next sew-along post to come out - but then came the sleeves and a pile of other sewing that I wanted to do.  So when I picked it up yesterday, determined to conquer the sleeves I realised that it had been three weeks since I did any work on it!  Just as well I was ahead of the game, because after successfully getting those sleeves in I'm back on track, yay!  So I thought I would share a bit about the journey so far ....

I chose this cotton boucle and silk lining - both purchased from The Fabric Store here in Wellington.

Muslin pieces all traced and thread traced.  I selected a pattern size according to my bust measurement and made the muslin without any adjustments.  The upper body of the muslin was a great fit, but I had to let out the princess seams in the front for my waist and hips.  Minor adjustments in the scheme of things.

Wolf in the Wardrobe

So, Papercut Patterns added this new feature to their website "Made by You" and all you have to do is add the hashtag #iheartpapercut to your instagram post and your pic appears on their website.  This is such a cool feature - especially for those of us who are in love with Papercut Patterns.   Anyways, getting to my point, my pic of my Circle Tops (red and black) got selected as a winner and I got to choose a free Papercut Pattern.

This was such a difficult decision, but in the end I chose the Peter & the Wolf Pants.

Floral - Summer - Wiggle

This cute little baby is my first ever full on floral dress (can you believe it!), and I am super in love with it.  Yay for the gorgeous summer days we've been having lately - no hanging around in the wardrobe for this dress.

As some of you might know I'm a little obsessed with Instagram atm and this wee obsession allowed me to be one of three lucky people to get a discounted 'end of stock' pattern from Blueginerdoll.  Abbey had rebranded all her pattern packaging and was looking to off-load the last of the 'old' Billie Jean patterns.

Oh to be like Jackie O!

This is the Brasilia Dress by House of Pinheiro.  A Jackie O inspired sheath dress that Rachel produced for the Fall for Cotton sew-along.

When I first saw Rachel's dress I thought it was to die for.  The inward darts at the bust are so unique - don't they just give the best shape to the dress.

Custom Made Bolero

I've made a few dresses lately and felt I was missing the one garment that would compliment them while keeping me warm as we transition through spring into summer.  Introducing the little black bolero!

This is a bit of a mis-mash of patterns.  First I started with the Sewaholic Renfrew which forms the base of the garment.  I reduced the length of the front and back pieces to 15.5" from base of neck to waist.  Then I took McCalls 5006 to shape the front,  which I had previously used to make THIS tie front cardie.  Lastly I used the band technique from the Papercut Patterns Circle Top I made HERE and HERE

Black Lace Ava

It would seem that I am in love with Victory Patterns at the moment ... first it was Lola, then Chloe 1 and Chloe 2 and now Ava.

My daughter loves wearing dresses (yay!) and had worn the death out of a dress we had bought for Christmas last year.   Ava is a very similar style and suits her hourglass figure like a glove.  However, teenagers are so fickle that choosing the right fabric was real marathon but after a trip to The Fabric Warehouse we walked out with a medium weight polytester which had a really nice drape to it.  The lace we had left over from a top I'd made for her back in May and that had already got the tick of approval.

Cotton Chloe

Cotton Chloe comes very hot on the heals of my first make

I wasn't intending to make another Chloe so quickly but .... I was in the Fabric Warehouse getting some cotton lining for my super cool geek fabric and spotted this cotton black/purple/cream fabric and just couldn't put it down.  I had very good intentions of only walking out with what I had come for - but my will power just wasn't that great.

Before I even got out of the shop I knew that this fabric would be sewn up into another Chloe.  I didn't make any changes to the dress itself.  The sleeves on the other hand I thought I would remove the excess fabric from the underarm seam.  On the first dress I took out 5/8" from the front side panel and back side panel but didn't remove the equivalent from the sleeve seam.

But that was a complete fail and the sleeves were too tight.  This was a real shit because I had already hand sewn the lining to the dress around the sleeve seam.  On the bright side I hadn't overlocked the raw edge of the sleeve seam, because I had tucked it into the dress before attaching the lining.  Just as well I had plenty of the black cotton fabric in my stash, although I hate having to redo things!  I should so have learnt my lesson with sleeves by now - obviously Not!

Oh I just about forgot, I also lengthen the hem of the dress 2" more than the pattern.   Two reasons:
1.  I wanted a deeper hem on this dress than my first which was only 1"
2.  I wanted the dress to be about 1" longer than my first.

Yay for a deeper hem but I'm not sure that I really like the length, perhaps just a bit too long for the style?  OR maybe it just seem like a lot of print?

Too finish I put wee studs on the pocket tabs.  I didn't put any up near the neckline as the pattern suggests as I think they are too small and will get lost against the pattern and I think a nice necklace will be better.

I'm sure this won't be the last Chloe I make either.  With summer coming on I think a sleeveless version in a nice light fabric might be in order!

More photos on my Flickr -->

Geektastic marries Vogue

I have been hanging out to make this dress for what seems like ages.  I purchased the pattern early this year but put it away thinking that when summer arrives I will get it out again.  Then I discovered Spoonflower!

I can't remember what month but this fabric was the winner of the geek contest on Spoonflower.  The colour was amazing and it just spoke to me.  Now ...  I don't usually go for novelty prints but this, well I just had to have it.

My Little Black Jacket

I am super excited about my next sew-along.  This is being hosted by A Sewing Challenge and thewallinna with mentor Susan Khalje.  The Chanel inspired little french jacket!


This wee 2 minute video was produced by Chanel in 2012 and shows an overview of the making a "Little Black Jacket".  It is so inspiring.

Taller than average

I can't described how super stoked I am to know how to make jeans.  I no longer have to put up with RTW that aren't quite long enough!

Back in June I made my first pair of jeans with the much loved Jalie pattern.  After wearing those jeans for a wee while I was keen to make small adjustments and try different styles.

Sewing Retro

Taking a step right outside my comfort zone and for that matter my style zone!  I have completed my very first vintage sewing project - which I would never have attempted if it wasn't for the online sewing community.  Earlier in the month I revealed the pattern and fabric (read here) as my Fall for Cotton project.

I am really smitten by the bodice of this dress and in particular the neckline, which was really easy to sew BTW, just had to make a triangle when sewing the facing on to the dress and cut it out!

Don't you just love the stand-up collar!

Side Tracked by underwear

This month I'm sewing along with The Monthly Stitch and Fall for Cotton, and if this wasn't enough to keep me busy I've been easily side tracked into what is worn under these lovely dresses!

Gosh, I don't event know how I got side-tracked but next thing I know I've ordered two bra patterns on Esty, and purchased a panties pattern from a local store so I can have a matching set!  (That's my obsessive compulsive behaviour at it's best!!!)

Hello Chloe

Chloe is a semi-fitted, mid length A-line dress that hints towards a 60's mod style - a pattern by Canadian company Victory Patterns.  I purchased the pattern from Dresses and Me together with the Lola pattern - you can read about my Lola here.

I really like the capped sleeve and contrast effect of version 2 and I chose a wool with a very fine red pinstripe which runs vertically.

Spring calls for Group Sewing

Today is the first day of spring and to kick it off I am participating in a couple of group sewing activities.  Luckily I can sew one garment for both - oh year love that!

I love sewing dresses and who doesn't like a good cotton fabric, but I don't usually sew vintage!  Athough now vintage includes the 1980s I probably have a few patterns from that era in my statsh!  Anyway my intuition must have known something I didn't, because about three months ago when sewingpatterns.com had a Butterick sale I acquired this Butterick Retro '51 pattern.  The dress to the left particularly caught my eye.

This pattern wasn't even on my sewing 'to do' list, then all of a sudden it is first out of the box for September - don't you love how a good group activity changes things :-)

Last week I took a wee detour to The Fabric Store hoping to get some inspiration for fabric.  I was hoping to find a cotton voile or similar light weight cotton that would have a transparent nature.  Next thing I knew I was at the counter with this fabric!

The pin in the centre will give you a sense of the size of the pattern.

Now this is sooooo far removed from my comfort zone, but the purple and blue combination found a soft spot and intuition said 'BUY IT'.   So what is a girl to do ... follow her intuition of course!

To keep inspired and gain some confidence in my selection I joined the Fall for Cotton Flickr group - check it out there are some great patterns and amazing fabrics to google over.

Check out this fabric!   I ordered this from Spoonflower, not long after I discovered the awesomeness of custom made fabric. 

Two yards of cotton sateen - devine!  At the time I ordered it all I knew was that I wanted to make a dress with it, one with a fullish skirt.  Then along came this pattern from Kay Unger in the Vogue collection, the perfect combination. 

On my way past the Fabric Warehouse yesterday I called in to pick up some lining, 100% cotton batiste, which is lovely and soft to match the cotton sateen, knowing that this pattern would be at the top of my sewing list soon now that it is Spring ;-)

It feels like Spring is my permission to start sewing summer dresses - well that's what I'm telling myself anyway.  That's not to say that I've finished my winter sewing list yet - still two pairs of jeans to make and a nice wool blazer!  There is no doubt that they will get loads of wear before summer is truly here.

Circle Top Take 2

I just couldn't resist!  I had to have a second Circle Top by Papercut Patterns.  My first was a lovely rich red - view that one here.

Butterick for a change

Earlier in the year I took advantage of a Butterick pattern sale and bought about five or so patterns, two of which were for knit fabrics.

I had some purple double knit jersey in my stash that I had bought to make a hoodie, but never quite got there!  I figured that the purple would look better in a dress than a hoodie anyway.  Not that these photos do the colour any justice - see those clouds, need I say more!!!

Little Red Hood

I have been eyeing up the Papercut Patterns for a wee while and the other day I gave in.  I was looking for a cardie or similar to wear with my new hummingbird.

I headed off to The Fabric Store to their 40% sale, looking for some merino!  But what would you know the only fabric that wasn't on sale was the one I liked!  So what the hell, I got it anyway along with the Circle Top pattern.

Sweet Lola

Lola, la-la-la-la-la-la Lola - come you you can't help but sing along!  Don't tell me you don't know that song?!

Okay, okay I've finished singing now.  Let me talk about the Lola dress by Victory Patterns.  The dress is described as a comfortable slip on dress with raglan sleeves, ribbed hem bands, front neckline “V” detail, and oversized wrap around pockets.

I prefer to have a more fitted look so considered carefully the sizing.   I went with a size 4 for the top and a size 6 for the skirt.  I must say the sizing chart was spot on!  I like how the size of the finished garment is shown directly under the body measurement chart.

I really like the fit of the bust area, but I feel like the shoulder/sleeves could do with a bit more ease.

I was thinking about this on my drive home from work and had a bit of an epiphany!  SBA (small bust adjustment)!!  I still need to have the room for my shoulders, which I'll say are normal (haha, as if there is such a word).  If the shoulders fit, the bust is swimming - if the bust fits the shoulders are always too small, which is all good if the garment is sleeveless.  Now to Google SBA and get my method sussed.

Back to my Lola!  I don't often visit Spotlight, other then to buy haberdashery when I'm on that side of town.  I got side-tracked on my last visit and found some double knit jersey for just $10 p/m - it's more like a ponti than a sweat-shirting.  The weight of the fabric is perfect for the Lola the blue was irresistible, but the ribbing choice was a different story.  In the end I decided that I could use the same fabric for the bands a the dress.   I am really happy with how that turned out.

My favourite feature about this dress is the wrap-around pockets.  This is because there is no side seam to faf around with, 'cause next to my SBA I always have to faf with the hip shape.

This Lola is dressy enough that I can wear it to work - I omitted the neck "V" so it doesn't have that casual look.  I definitely plan on making another one that is more casual, a looser fit that can be worn over jeans - that one can have the wee neck "V" included.

Everyone needs a Lola for sure!

Winter Swap Goodies

I have recently participated in the INAUGURAL WINTER SWAP 2013  hosted by Penny at Dresses and Me.

I had never participated in a fabric swap before but Penny outlined really clearly how it would work.  I really like the idea of receiving a parcel that would be completely mysterious. 

After a really busy week at work I arrived home on Friday evening to find my parcel waiting for me :-)

My parcel was a treasure chest of sewing goodies ...

I love this wee purse size sewing kit - just perfect.